Someone trying Jewish food for the first time might think,
“How delicious! This tastes exactly like Moroccan food!”
This observation is correct, at least partly so. Jewish cuisine has been shaped by geographic region, whether European, Middle Eastern or North African and merged with the local style of cooking. The unifier of Jewish cuisine is religious dietary law and regional cuisines had to be adopted to fit these observances.
One of the hallmarks of Jewish cuisine is the slow cooked Shabbat stews. Observant Jews do not cook or use electricity on Saturday, the Shabbath and on some religious holidays. Long term cooking was developed where food is prepared on Friday, before the onset of Shabbath and left to slow cook throughout the night. This is known as hamin in many Middle Eastern countries, cholent in Eastern Europe, dafina in Spain, skhina in Morocco and mebosa in the Aramaic dialect of Northern Iraq. Today the recipes and their names have traveled wherever Jews have settled.
A popular Kurdish version of this stew is made with wheat berries and is called paku’ata in Aramaic. My Grandmother Zarifa calls it Hita, which translates to wheat in Hebrew. In Aramaic it may have been known also as Kiteh or keteh. Kubba, or Middle Eastern dumplings are often added to the stew for a more substantial dish.
Kurdish Slow Cooked Wheat
My Aunt told me she adds tomato paste to hers and this is what I do. My relatives also cook the wheat berries before adding it to the stew for a mushier consistency. I omitted this step and added chopped onions for extra flavor.
2 cups wheat berries
1 onion, chopped
1 tablespoon tomato paste
800 grams stewing meat such as chuck cut into cubes or four chicken thighs
1/2 teaspoon turmeric
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
2 1/2 teaspoons salt
A few tablespoons of olive oil, vegetable oil or lamb fat (I used olive oil)
Preheat the oven to 100°C. In a cast iron pot or other oven proof pot, brown the meat in olive oil. Add the onions and cook until beginning to brown. Add the rest of the ingredients-the wheat, tomato paste and spices. Cover with water so it comes to about 2 cm above the wheat (about four cups of water). Bring to a boil. Cover and put into the oven overnight. The following morning check to see if additional water needs to be added. If the wheat begins to stick to the bottom of the pot it’s a good idea to add a bit more water so it doesn’t dry out. I served it with a grated carrot and radish salad, dressed simply with olive oil and lemon juice.
Who is this? Meet Nesher (Eagle) our new pet cockatiel